That's the gist of it, yea. But I googled my way into an answer on why it wasn't picking it up, and edited my bios and it did start identifying the usb.

I tried installing from the usb afterwards, same issue. So I followed your advice and deleted the partition where my old OS was as I started the installation.

At that point, the installation worked until it didn't, and gave me the error message "windows could not complete the installation. To install windows on this computer, restart the installation."

Clicking OK reboots the computer and brings me back to the same screen. It's a bitch to click through because the mouse is not represented visually. I know it's there but it's basically clicking furiously and hoping that I blindly get it on the "ok"


So I took the machine's advice and reinstalled again from the usb. Same issue. Now when I don't boot from the usb, it prompts me with 2 separate windows 10 OS to choose from. Either one fails to work in the same way.

No keyboard commands seem to work. I tried google a bit more, but couldn't find an answer that worked, because most start with "shift+f10 to open command prompt" which does nothing for me, because the command prompt doesn't open.

So this has gone to shit. Time to scrap it and start with a complete rebuild! Actually, a coworker's wife liked some of my house remodeling and wanted a pair of barn doors like mine. She finally decided to pay me to make them. So I've had an influx of cash I wasn't expecting and I've already priced out the materials since she wants exact replicas of the ones I've already made.

So I was going to keep my old psu, use the old hdd as storage, and maybe salvage the case. I'm planning to put around 1300$ total into the build, not including those salvaged parts. Thoughts? I'll be putting together my initial selections together after work today and posting them for any input you're interested in giving. I wouldn't mind having a monitor in with those, but we'll see. I may just keep using the shitty one until maybe my tax return.

On the same note, I'd be interested in finding out potential solutions for my windows issue if you have any ideas on what to try next.

---------- Post automerged at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:34 AM ----------

Could you elaborate a bit on this? What am I looking for in my motherboard exactly?

Sorry for all the stupid questions, I appreciate the help.

 

Sounds like it doesn't really delete your old Windows. So instead of choosing "Install now", you chose "Custom Installation" (or whatever it's called) right? Are there any other partitions on your HDD, if so try deleting them all (as long as there's nothing you haven't backed up on there).

There's basically three Intel chipsets you should concern yourself with. B250, H270 and Z270 (at least if you get a Kaby Lake). B250 iis the most basic one, H270 has usually some more features, and Z270 is for overclocking.

Since mainboards don't influence performance at all, you chose the cheapest one that has all the features you want.

 

So here's my current build plan:
Radeon SSD R3 480GB

MSI Z270-A PRO LGA 1151 Intel Z270

intel i5 7600k

Patriot Viper 4 16GB

MSI 1060

Keep my original power supply as well as my harddrive for storage, keep the same case or find something I like.

What do you think? I'm kind of just throwing darts at a board here. Should I cut costs in some areas to upgrade others? I haven't been a fan of my asus products in the past; how are there ssds?

How important is overclocking? Can I cut costs there by going for a H270, or should I really get comfortable with the idea of overclocking at some point?

Also, how should I go about picking out a CPU cooler that's adequate?

My dad is getting interested in helping me put it together (having it all delivered to his house since he's able to be home more frequently and guarantee any shipments are not missed, so we got to talking) and he is really pushing me to go for 32gb of ram. What's my cost effective route here?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Weird SSD choice. Anyways, go for a Samsung 850Evo or Crucial MX300 instead.

Like I mentioned, motherboard depends on what features you want, since it has no impact on performance. If you don't want/need so much fancy stuff, and don't want to overclock, then even a B250 board is fine. So, think about how many USB and SATA ports you want, if you want an M.2 slot etc.

Since the non-K version seems to be only $10 cheaper, this CPU will be fine.

Go for something that doesn't have a "garden fence" on top. The "coolers" on RAM are just cosmetic - they add nothing worthwhile, but can cause problems with some coolers if they're too high. Also, feel free to chose 2133MHz RAM instead, because the performance difference between DDR4-3000 and DDR4-2133 ranges from very low to nonexistent.

Would be best to decide on your monitor now, since if you decide to go for 1440p, the 1060 will struggle with higher details.

It's essentially free performance. I wouldn't really say that it's "important", but if you have a CPU and motherboard that allow you to overclock, why not do it?

What case do you have? Your case dictates which cooler can fit.

Do you do video editing? If not, 32GB of RAM is a complete waste of money. When you've got nothing left to upgrade you could add another 16GB, but before that you're better off investing that money in a better CPU/GPU, larger SSD, better monitor etc.

 

Case is this one.

With the monitor decision, would the 480 manage what the 1060 can't? Or is it 1070 or bust?

I feel like I'll eventually start overclocking, and the z270 is 89$, so I'll stick with it. Is that a good choice of a z270 board to go with?

 

Looks like the max cooler height is 192mm, and water cooling is a no-go. So you could go for something like the Macho, which is a good cost effective cooler. Then of course there's things like the Noctua NH-D15, be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 and a bunch of others.

While the 2GB more VRAM would certainly help the 480 at higher resolutions, it just doesn't have the computing power to support it. With 1440p, a 1070 is the minimum if you want higher details. As always, looking at benchmarks of games you want to play helps with the decision.

Sure, it'll do fine. You could go for one with more CPU phases for a potenitally better overclock later, but it's not strictly required.

Oh and something else: you are of course aware, that by getting a Kaby Lake CPU you'll be pretty much forced to use Windows 10 right?

 

That was my plan, but are there downsides to that?

 

Additionally to what Cheddar said, some people have actual problems. Software is broken, games are broken or have bad performance and all that stuff. So Win10 seems like a bit of a gamble if it'll work correctly or not.

 

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LdxND8

So here's my final build idea. Thoughts?

@Cheddar, thanks for the help and advice! Sacro, I appreciate all your advice so far.

 

Churchey

Yeah, looks good. I assume the Case, PSU etc. in that list are the things you already have? Though the case in the pcpartpicker is different from the one you linked before.

 

Yes, the list includes my current monitor, hdd, psu, and case.
The case is RC-430-KWN1, on both the link I sent and on the pcpartmaster, are you sure it's not the same?

How is the RAM? Should I look at any particular brands for ram?

Sticking with the same video card for now, when I look into getting a monitor I'll make it non-budget, and save up for both upgrades at the same time. For now this will give me the boost I'm looking for I think.

 

Yes, the case you linked first was a Cooler Master Elite 431 Plus, the one in pcpartpicker is a Cooler Master Elite 430. They have different cooler clearances, so if you've got the 430 instead of the 431 Plus, the Dark Rock Pro 3 will cut it kinda close, since its height is the same as the maximum of the case. It would be a tight fit, or just not fit at all, so can you clarify which of the two you have?

Crucial is fine - it's the customer branch of Micron.

 

So this one is the link from my newegg order history from back when I built it:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119227


I can't find discernible marks on the outside of the case itself besides the coolermaster logo.

I'm not really opposed to a brand new case if it's not too expensive and looks awesome though.

 

Well this is the Elite 431 Plus, so the cooler will fit.

Well cases are a very personal preference kind of thing. Just make sure that it has preferaby two intakes in the front and dust filters.

 

Thanks, say something like this which I'm liking the look of?


Also went with my Dad last night to Fry's. I had mentioned I was upgrading and he always gets excited about things like this. He texts me at 8:07 to say:

Followed by:

So we went to Fry's and I picked up some pieces. They didn't have my video card, my cpu cooler, my motherboard, or my ram. But they did have some other RAM options and I kind of impulse bought these http://www.frys.com/product/9018917

because they were 20$ less than the crucial sticks I was planning on getting.

I can't really find any other info on them, pacific sun/samsung 8gb DDR4 2133mhz.

Stick with them or return them and order something else?

I got home and ordered the rest, last possible changes being to return the RAM and order the sticks I planned on, and perhaps the new case I linked above.

 

"Max cooler height: 160mm" - so the Dark Rock Pro 3 won't fit. However, that case would allow you to go for an AiO watercooler instead, so that would be an alternative to the air cooler.

It's RAM, there's really not much difference between brands, so it'll do just fine.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Quiet-Dark-R...488757366&sr=8-1&keywords=be+quiet!+dark+rock

The dark rock has 160mm instead of the 163mm of the dark rock pro. Would that work?

What water cooling options do you recommend? My goal would be keeping it at the same price as the dark rock pro 3 or around ~$75


Looking at the options available and reading some reviews at tom's hardware, it seems like I'm needing to go 120+ to make it worth it. I think I'd rather stick with air cooling for now.

 

The normal Dark Rock 3 is quite a bit worse than the Pro version - about 8-10°C. Besides, you'd still be cutting it kinda close with a 160mm cooler when the case has a max height of 160mm. No other case strike your fancy?

Eh for around $75 the only one that comes to mind is the Enermax Liqmax II 240. It's an okay cooler, though the fans can get a bit loud at maximum RPM. Another good option would be the Arcitc Cooling Freezer 240, though that's a bit more expensive.